Hawaiian Surfriding: The Ancient and Royal Pastime


Part of foreword: In early times the art of surfriding had a profound religious significance; it was called Ka Nalu, a study of the wave. From a lifetime in and around the ocean, a surfrider learned some of the immutable laws of nature. From the many hundreds of hours spent off shore on his surfboard, he became aware of a constant pattern that prevails in the forming and breaking action of the waves. Thus, he came to recognize the great harmony and rhythm that permeates all things. He acquired the patience to wait for things to happen rather than to try to make them happen. With each successful ride, he experienced a feeling of spiritual achievement; he had come into harmony with nature; and nature, for all practical purposes, is God.